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Korean Lifting: Everything You Need to Know

Korean Lifting: Everything You Need to Know

Origin of the New Technique

Asian lashes present unique characteristics that influence the lamination treatment. They are generally straighter, thicker (80–120 µm), and pointing downward, with a lower curvature and lift angle compared to other types of lashes. Furthermore, they are often combined with a monolid eye structure, meaning they are characterized by the absence of a visible crease on the eyelid. These peculiarities make Asian lashes more difficult to curl and require a specific approach to achieve optimal results.

Their greater resistance also leads to longer processing times compared to those needed for other types of lashes. To address this need, an alternative glue-free lash lamination technique was developed in Korea: Korean lamination.

What is Korean Lamination?

Korean (or Asian) lamination is a method that eliminates the step of gluing the lashes onto the silicone pads, thus promising to reduce treatment times. This method is based on a cysteamine formula that, like thioglycolic acid, breaks the disulfide bonds, making the lashes ready to be treated.

For more information on hair structure [click here]

How does it work?

  1. After cleansing the lashes and applying the under-eye patches, the most suitable silicone pad size is selected (both Traditional and Korean techniques).
  2. If a cysteamine-based solution is used, it must also be applied along the entire length of the lashes without gluing them — simply resting them on the pad — and left to work.
  3. Once the processing time of phase 1 has elapsed (longer compared to solutions with thioglycolic acid), the lashes are first cleaned and then phase 2 is applied to the lashes resting on the pad, in order to define and set the curvature.
  4. The treatment concludes with the nourishing phase and the application of any conditioners or gloss, with or without color (at the lamimaker's discretion).

Differences Between Classic Lamination and Korean Lamination

FEATURE TRADITIONAL LAMINATION KOREAN LAMINATION
Use of glue Yes, to fix the lashes to the silicone pad No, the lashes are only rested on it
Formula used Thioglycolic acid or cysteamine Cysteamine only
Phase processing times Reduced Longer
Eye safety Lower risk of irritation Higher risk due to lashes not being fixed with glue, as the product from the phases may drip into the eye
Definition of the result Curvature and direction are decisive and defined at the professional's discretion Irregular and non-uniform lash curvature and direction

Disadvantages of Korean Lamination

Despite the advantage of removing the step of straightening the lashes on the pad with glue — in terms of both time and money — Korean lamination presents some disadvantages:

  • The application time of phase 1 is lengthened: Cysteamine is slower. To remedy this, My Lamination has developed a phase (Cysteamine Lift) with processing times starting from 5–6 minutes for extra-thin lashes.
  • Greater product waste: Cysteamine solutions require application along the entire length, while thioglycolic acid solutions are not applied to the tips (up to 80% of the length).
  • Greater effort for the lamimaker: Since the lashes are not glued, they tend to continuously detach from the pad. This forces the lamimaker to realign them repeatedly, even after the phase has been applied, taking away valuable time needed for preparing the subsequent phases and the color.
  • Less definition in the curvature: Traditional fixing guarantees an application that allows for a more defined and uniform curvature.
  • Not suitable for all lamimakers: Considerable experience and meticulous attention are required to perform the Korean technique; therefore, traditional lash lamination remains the easiest and safest choice for most lash professionals.

Conclusion

Korean lamination represents an innovation for those seeking an alternative method, suitable only for those with fine lashes.

My Lamination recommends, to guarantee a precise and safe result, traditional lamination, which remains the most reliable solution in terms of the final result.

We also remind you that every client is unique, and it is essential to choose the most suitable method to best enhance the natural beauty of the lashes.